So along with my Total Circuit strength and conditioning workouts and some upcoming Fitness Tests I will also be putting up some specific Climbing training material.
First up are 2 hangboard workouts that I am using at the moment. One is a pull up workout and one is an endurance workout. For both workouts it is best to keep a diary so you can see your progress as you go so you can can make adjustments to your workouts.
So with no more delay, here we go!
HANGBOARD WORKOUT 001 - The 60 Pull Up Workout
This one is aiming towards the eventual (hypothetical) goal of being able to do 60 consecutive pull ups and is really simple to do.
Lets assume you can do 3 pull ups easily enough for the case of this example BUT you can start doing this workout with 1 pull up per set to make it to 20 pull ups, or 2 to make it 40, or 5 if you are way strong... whatever... I am doing it with 3 for now.
Get your stop watch and set it for 30 second sets and at the start of each 30 seconds do your 3 pull ups then rest for the remainder of the set. Repeat this 20 times for 60 pull ups in 10 mins.
When this routine gets easy change your timer to 25 second sets, then when that is easy go to 20 seconds, then 15, then 10, etc until theoretically you will reach a point of doing 60 pull ups consecutively.
This will take time of course but it is a fantastic workout for building up your big pulling muscles stamina.
HANGBOARD WORKOUT 002 - Endurance workout
This workout, as the title suggests, works at building up your forearm endurance and again is a simple, measurable workout.
You need a hangboard (obviously) and a chair. Place the chair far out under the hangboard so that you can hang on the board with your body extended out with your feet on the chair simulating a very steep wall in a way.
For this I am currently using a large flat edge on my hangboard but you can use any hold you like but try to continue using the same hold for a while to be able to measure improvement.
Start by setting your stop watch to run 1 minute set followed by a 30 second set over and over 10 times.
Hang on the hold you have chosen with your feet out on the chair for the 1 minute then rest for 30 seconds, hang with feet on the chair for 1 minute again, rest for 30 seconds again... repeat this for 10 sets. you should be feeling a deep forearm pump early in the workout and have to maintain through it till the end. If not, use a smaller / worse / slopeyer hold or put the chair further away or whichever so that you re getting properly pumped in the workout.
This in a way simulates a very long and pumpy climb and you can even do this workout several times with a good rest in between overall sets.
When the 1 minute sets are being acheived easily enough increase the hang time out, for example to 75 second hang, 30 second rest, or 90 second hang, 30 second rest, etc... jsut increase it slightly and progressively over time until you are doing long hangs (perhaps up to 3 minutes) then move to a smaller hold and go back to the 1 minute / 30 second routine and increase again from there. This is an easily measurable routine that can be increased gradually over time, improving your route enurance endlessly :)
So there you have it, 2 great and simple hangboard workouts that you can perform and monitor your improvement on easily.
If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask here in the comments section!
EDIT: As asked by our friend Richard I will add a couple of pics to show eactly what I mean by using the chair in the workouts. As you can see in the pics I put the chair out as far as I can comfortably reach. You can adjust how far out you put it, bring it closer, use a hight chair, whatever works for you to make the workout the correct resistance for you personally.
I hope that help Richard, let me know if you have any other questions :)