Sunday, February 10, 2013

NEW WEBSITE!


Hi there one and all!

We now have a new website  -  www.athletebychoice.com

Come over and check us out. A whole new look, more and more new content. Check it out and tell us what you think!

See you soon!
Athlete By Choice

Friday, July 6, 2012

Short Hiatus...

Hi guys!

So you may have noticed it being a little bit quiet around here lately. Well that's right now we are on a trip around China visiting some amazing new destinations to develop rock climbing it. We are working hard, bolting new routes and of course climbing a lot.
If you would like to keep up with what's going on with the trip go check out www.boulderoz.blogspot.com for all the details  :)
We will be back at home in Yangshuo in mid August and will pick up where we left off for you all!

Keep training, keep having fun and keep smiling!
See you all really soon!
Duncan.

Friday, June 8, 2012

TOTAL CIRCUIT 011

Good morning one and all!

Hope you have all had a great week of training or climbing or doing something fun. It is getting hotter and more humid here in Yangshuo but it's not stopping us from training hard and sending fun routes here yet  :)

Here is this week's Total Circuit. As always just set your timer for 1 minute and do each exercise for the whole minute, performing as many repetitions as you can in the minute then moving straight on to the next exercise. Do the 10 exercises through then return to the start for one more set of each for a total of a 20 minute killer workout.

Enjoy!


Here are this week's exercises!


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1.  Standard Push Ups  -  Hands shoulder width apart, lower down till your chest nearly touches the ground, push back up, repeat.



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2.  Lateral Lunge  -  Stand upright, arms out at shoulder height either straight or bent, step out to one side and lower into a side lunge, push back up to standing center and repeat on the other side, repeat.




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3.  Push Up To Side Plank  -  Another favorite of mine, standard push up but pushing up to a side plank position, hold for 3 seconds, lower and repeat on the other side, repeat.





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4.  Star Jumps  -  Or Jumping Jacks - You all know how to do this one  :)


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5.  Diamond Push Ups  -  Put your hands together on the floor so your thumbs touch and forefingers touch making a diamond shape, perform a push up keeping your elbows close in by your sides, repeat.




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6.  V Sits  -  Another one of my tried and true favorites, I do these almost every day, I think you all know these ones by now  :)




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7.  Wide Side To Side Push Ups  -  Perform a wide push up, step your hands and feet together, step them out wide on the other side and perform another wide push up, step back to middle, repeat to the other side, etc.





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8.  Skipping  -  I'm sure you know this one! Remember, if you don't have a skipping rope then any old peice of rope will do  :)


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9.  Alternating Superman  -  hold the opposite arm and leg out horizontal, hold each side for 5 seconds, then swap to the other side. If these are too easy try them on your toes, no knees on the floor, in a plank position.








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10.  Leg Raises  -  Lay on your back, hands by your sides and raise your legs up to 90 degrees then lower back down to just about the floor and repeat without actually touching the floor each time, repeat.







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Ok guys and gals, there you have it. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to contact us!

Now go get training and enjoy!

Duncan


Monday, May 28, 2012

Hangboard Workout - The Opposing Pyramid

Happy Monday one and all!

Today I have a nice and simple hangboard workout for all the climbers out there. This one can be a bit easier than the last ones as it is adjustable to your own level but it can also be hard too, it's all about the parameters you set.
This one is a great one to do as a short, simple workout when you have a little spare time or can be expanded to make a bigger workout too. The example I give below is a 10 minute workout but you can adjust it to any length you want.
The basis of this workout is doing a pyramid of dead hangs and a pyramid of pull ups overlaying each other but mirrored so when you do long hangs you do less pull ups and when the hang times are short you do more pull ups. Sounds a little confusing but it's not, just check out the sample session below!

Set your timer for 1 minute intervals and do the sets below at the start of each minute...
Choose a suitable hold for the dead hangs (I use a medium edge) and use a jug for the pull ups...


1.  20 second hang  /  1 pull up
2.  16 second hang  /  2 pull ups
3.  12 second hang  /  3 pull ups
4.  8 second hang  /  4 pull ups
5.  4 second hang  /  5 pull ups
6.  4 second hang  /  5 pull ups
7.  8 second hang  /  4 pull ups
8.  12 second hang  /  3 pull ups
9.  16 second hang  /  2 pull ups
10.  20 second hang  /  1 pull up


So there you have it, easy as that. Or is it? Check it out!
And of course you can adjust all the parameters of this workout such as the length of the whole workout, length of each interval (go up to 1:30 if you need longer rest, etc), length of the hangs, amounts of the pull ups, type of hold, etc. It's fully adjustable to suit your needs and a great little all round hang board workout  :)

Go get training! And happy Monday all!
Duncan














Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Hangboard Routines - Route Simulator - RED DRAGON

Hi again one and all!

We're back again today to bring another hangboard routine for all the climbers out there with us. Again just like with the Total Circuits we are going to be trying to bring a hangboard or other climbing specific workout to you each and every week, so look out for that!

This week we have another Route Simulator hangboard work out, this time simulating the stresses of a steeper and burlier route than the last one; this one is for the classic 8a+ 'Red Dragon' at Moon Hill here in Yangshuo.

To do the workout simply set your stop watch timer to 1 minute intervals and perform each exercise for the full minute. If they are too hard just rest for a minute in between each exercise to start with and reduce the rest times over time to build up to doing it straight through.
You can also of course use any type of hangboard for these routines, simply pick holds that are similar or suitable for you, easy.
Some of the exercises you perform non stop for the whole minute, others are broken up into a short exercise (such as some pull ups) followed by a second exercise to do for the remainder of the minute.

Ok, let's go!!!


RED DRAGON

1. Chair Hang on Big Edge
2. 5 Pull Ups on Big Pinch  /  Chair Hang on Jug
3. 10 second Hang on Small Edge  /  Chair Hang on Big Edge
4. 3 Pull Ups on Medium Edge  /  V Sits
5. 10 second Hang on Small Edge  /  Chair Hang on Sloper
6. 5 Pull Ups on Big Pinch  /  Chair Hang on Big Edge
7. Chair Hang on Jug
8. 10 second Hang on Small Edge  / Chair Hang on Sloper
9. 3 Pull Ups on Small Edge  /  Leg Raises
10. 3 Pull Ups on Sloper  /  Chair Hang on Sloper
11. Offset Pull Ups on Jug and Small Edge
12. 10 Pull Ups on Jug  /  V Sits
13. Chair Hang on Sloper
14. 10 second Hang on Big Edge  /  Star Jumps
15. 10 second Hang on Sloper  /  V Sits
16. 2 One Arm Hang on Small Edge (One on each arm for 6 seconds)  /  Chair Hang on Medium Edge
17. 6 Offset Pull Ups on Jug and Small Edge (3 on each side)  /  Chair Hang on Medium Edge
18. 5 Pull Ups on Small Edge  /  Chair Hang on Medium Edge
19. 20 second Full Lock Off on Medium Edge  /  Chair Hang on Sloper
20. Pull Ups on Big Pinch



Ok, so here are descriptions of the different exercises...


  • Chair Hang - both hands on the designated holds, feet up on a chair as in the endurance hangboard workouts here on this site
  • Pull Ups - standard pull ups performed as smooth and neatly as possible
  • Offset Pull Ups - one hand on one hold, one hand lower and on a different hold (for example; jug and edge) and pull up directing your chin towards the higher hand
  • Full Lock Off - lock off with your chin at least at the height of your hands, hold this statically for the required time
  • Hang - easy, just hang on the designated holds and be sure to engage your shoulders and back so that you are hanging on the muscles and not on the joints 
  • One Arm Hang - Hang from the designated hold with only one hand. Ensure that you engage the muscles in your arm and shoulder so you are not hanging on your bones. If this is too hard use a peice of rope in the other hand, or another hold, etc for assistance
  • Star Jumps / Jumping Jacks - if you don't know what these are look them up in one of the Total Circuits here on this site. A simple cardio exercise to bring your heart rate up and give your arms a short break from the board
  • V Sits and Leg Raises - Core exercises. Take a look at Total Circuit 010 for descriptions of these simple and effective core exercises.


So there you have it. again this is a pretty intense hang board work out so feel free to put rest times in between or reduce the length of each set, etc and build up to the full 20 minutes straight through.
And as always feel free to message us with any questions at all!

Go get training guys and gals!!!

Duncan






Monday, May 21, 2012

TOTAL CIRCUIT 010

Hi gang!

Here's our total Circuit for this week, a bit of a cardio based one that will get the lungs working hard  :)
We are going to attempt to bring you all a new Total Circuit each week from now on with hopefully also some weekly climbing workouts and some other bonus material, so look out for lot's more coming up!

Here is this week's Total Circuit. Remember to simply set your timer for 1 minute intervals and perform as many repetitions of each exercise as you can for each minute then move on to the next one. As always there are 10 exercises and you will do each for 1 minute then go through it a second time for a total of a 20 minute work out. Go get it!!!

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Here are the 10 exercises...

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1. Skipping - Using a skipping rope or an old piece of any rope or even pretending to jump rope if you don't have one. Keep up a good pace for the full minute.

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2. V Sits -  My old favorite. Be sure to keep your back and legs nice and straight.



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3. Star Jumps - Some of you call these Jumping Jacks, but whatever you call them we all know these ones. Just try and keep a nice steady pace throughout the minute,

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4. Push Up to Side Plank -Perform a normal shoulder width push up then rotate up into a solid side plank, hold the position for 3 seconds, then back down, push up again and up on the other side, repeat.



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5. Squat Jumps - Squat down and touch the floor with your hands then jump as high as you can into the air reaching up as high as you can, then back down to touch the floor and repeat non stop for the minute.



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6. Leg Raises - Lay on your back, hands by your sides and raise your legs up to 90 degrees then lower back down to just about the floor and repeat without actually touching the floor each time.



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7 Mountain Climbers - Put your hands out in a standard push up position, jump one foot forward then jump and switch feet. your hands remain on the ground but you jump your feet to alternate which is forwards and which is back. If this is too hard try it with your hands on a chair rather than the ground.



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8. Skipping - Repeat exercise 1.

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9. Star Jumps - Repeat exercise 3.

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10. Squat Jumps - Repeat exercise 5.


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Ok, there you have it. This one should be pushing your cardio hard and turning your legs to jelly. If it's not then you aren't trying hard enough!!!

Enjoy, and as always feel free to contact us with any questions you may have about this or any other workout here!

Go get training!
Duncan

Sunday, May 13, 2012

Hangboard Routines - Route Simulator - LIGHTNING

Hi all!

Today I have a hangboard routine for all you climbers out there. It is a fairly hard 20 minute routine that I call a Route Simulator because they are intended to simulate some of the stresses encountered on some routes that I have been trying here in Yangshuo.
I will lay one out for you today and then clarify a few of the exercises in them. I will try to bring you another one of these Route Simulators each week or so.
To do them simply set your stop watch timer to 1 minute intervals and perform each exercise for the full minute. If they are too hard just rest for a minute in between each exercise to start with and reduce the rest times over time to build up to doing it straight through.
You can also of course use any type of hangboard for these routines, simply pick holds that are similar or suitable for you, easy.
Some of the exercises you perform non stop for the whole minute, others are broken up into a short exercise (such as some pull ups) followed by a second exercise to do for the remainder of the minute.

Ok, here we go!

 LIGHTNING

1. Chair Hang on sloper
2. Chair Hang on big edge
3. 5 Pull Ups on big pocket / V - Sits for the remainder of the minute
4. Offset Pull Ups (Jug and medium edge - 3 each side, then swap, repeat)
5. 20 second Full Lock Off on small edge / Chair Hang on sloper
6. 10 second Hang on small edge / Leg Raises
7. Alternating Campus
8. 20 second Hang on medium edge / Chair Hang on medium edge
9. 20 second Hang on medium edge / Chair Hang on sloper
10. 10 second Hang on small edge / Star Jumps (Jumping Jacks)
11. Alternating Campus
12. Chair Hang on medium edge
13. 10 second Offset Lock Off (Big edge and small edge) - once on each side / Leg Raises
14. 6 Offset Pull Ups (Big edge and small edge) - 3 on each side / Chair Hang on medium edge
15. Typewriters on jug
16. 5 Pull Ups on medium edge / Chair Hang on medium edge
17. Alternating Campus
18. 5 Pull Ups on small edge / Chair Hang on medium edge
19. Alternating Campus
20. 10 Pull Ups on sloper


Ok, so here are descriptions of the different exercises...

  • Chair Hang - both hands on the designated holds, feet up on a chair as in the endurance hangboard workouts here on this site
  • Pull Ups - standard pull ups performed as smooth and neatly as possible
  • Offset Pull Ups - one hand on one hold, one hand lower and on a different hold (for example; jug and edge) and pull up directing your chin towards the higher hand
  • Full Lock Off - lock off with your chin at least at the height of your hands, hold this statically for the required time
  • Hang - easy, just hang on the designated holds and be sure to engage your shoulders and back so that you are hanging on the muscles and not on the joints
  • Alternating Campus - I have an extra rung below my hang board and go from this, left hand to an edge, right hand to the top of the board, then repeat starting with right hand to the edge. You can make a small campus move problem on your board that suits you
  • Star Jumps / Jumping Jacks - if you don't know what these are look them up in one of the Total Circuits here on this site. A simple cardio exercise to bring your heart rate up and give your arms a short break from the board
  •  Offset Lock Offs - same as the Offset Pull Ups but bring your chin to your high hand and lock the position there for the designated amount of time
  • Typewriters - hold the designated holds and pull up to full lock position and then move side to side taking your head from your left hand to your right hand and back as smooth as possible, keep going for the indicated amount of time


So there you go. It's a pretty intense hangboard workout and it will most likely feel impossible to complete perfectly to begin with, but you can add rests between the exercises or make slightly easier variations on the exercises but I am sure that once you can actually complete it through with no rests and no failures you will be feeling pretty darn strong  :-)

Look out soon for the next one of these Route Simulator hangboard programs soon and please feel free to message us if you have any questions!
Enjoy!
Duncan.

Wednesday, May 2, 2012

TOTAL CIRCUIT 009

Hi guys!

It's been a little while since we put a new Total Circuit up here so we thought it high time to correct that. This one has a large focus on core strength and shoulders after a special request from our good friend Amy who wanted a workout to help her with her pole dancing classes. Pole dancing has become really popular in recent years as a fun and intense way to keep fit and strong and it requires a large amount of whole body strength, core, coordination and flexibility so it could be really good cross training for climbing.
Anyhow, here's the workout, mainly focusing on core to help Amy and Co. with their pole dancing and the rest of us with our core in general. There's no video this week but instead we're trying photo's to show all the exercises. As usual there are some you have done before and some new ones we are including for the first time so check out the photos and descriptions and try to perform each one as well as you can.
As usual set your stop watch for 1 minute rounds and do each exercise non stop for a whole minute before moving on to the next one and when you complete all 10 exercises go back through them one more time for a total of a 20 minute core blasting workout! Be sure to perform each exercise smoothly and evenly and try to complete as many reps of each in the minute while maintaining good form. Of course the static poses are just to be held statically for the whole minute.

Now go get training!
Enjoy!
Duncan

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Here are the 10 exercises...


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1. Alternating Superman - hold the opposite arm and leg out horizontal, hold each side for 5 seconds, then swap to the other side. If these are too easy try them on your toes, no knees on the floor, in a plank position.



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2. V - Sit to 5 second Boat Pose - Lay back, arms above your head then sit up into the boat pose and hold for 5 seconds, go back down and repeat.


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3. Push Up to Side Plank - Perform a normal shoulder width push up then rotate up into a solid side plank, hold the position for 3 seconds, then back down, push up again and up on the other side, repeat.


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4. Boat Pose Scissors -  Sit up into boat pose and scissor your legs up and down in a steady rhythm.



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5. Superman - lay down flat on your front, hands by your head and raise your legs and chest up of the ground and hold statically for the whole minute. You can do this also on a stool or across a chair for a variation.

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6. Uneven Forward Pushups - Place your hands for a push up but have one hand forward and one back, do 3 push ups on this side then swap positions and repeat for the minute.




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7. Headstand - Place your hands and head on the ground to form a solid triangle and smoothly pull yourself up into the headstand position and hold for the minute.

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8. Extended Plank - Perform a plank but with your hands as far forwards as you can manage and hold statically for the minute.


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9. V - Sits - Lay back, arms by your head and raise your legs and torso up at the same time into the shape of a V, then back to the ground and repeat.


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10. Star Plank - Another plank variation but this time with your hands as far to the side as you can manage to hold statically for the whole minute.


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Sunday, April 29, 2012

Warm Up Intervals

Hi all!

Another short one here. Today I just wanted to post a little warm up I have been using lately before training that can be done easily anywhere. You can also extend it and use it as a good cardio workout too.

It's an easy one: set your timer for 1 minute intervals and do the following...


Minute 1
  • 10 core exercises (v-sit, core ball pass, crunches, leg raises, etc - pick and mix them up)
  • Finish the rest of the minute with skipping
Minute 2
  • 10 push ups (standard, tiger, side to side, etc - again, pick and mix them up)
  • Finish the rest of the minute with star jumps (jumping jacks)

Repeat this 5 times for a 10 minute warm up that will get your upper body and core working gently and get your cardio vascular system kicked into gear and ready to train.

Easy! Now get into it!
Duncan

Monday, April 23, 2012

Hangboard Endurance + core and cardio!

Hey all,

Here's a little variation on the hangboard endurance program that I posted here: Hangboard Workout 002

In this one you do the same sets of hangs, with your feet up on a chair, on a suitable hold (I use a sloper that gives me a deep pump but is easier on the fingers joints than an edge or crimp) but instead of just resting in the off sets you do 10 v-sits (or leg raises, or crunches, or mix it up however you like it, just 10 reps of a good core exercise) then do either star jumps (jumping jacks) or skipping or jogging on the spot, etc for the remainder of the rest (be sure to push hard on whatever cardio you choose to get yourself breathing hard and your heart pumping fast).

Follow the instructions in the previous workout for the hangs, but essentially you are using a chair and doing them like this:




I did this workout today with 1 minute hangs followed by 1 minute of the core + cardio combo and did this 15 times for a total of a 30 minute workout.

Now the reason to use a chair is that it takes some of the weight off from doing a normal dead hang and allows you to complete the full 1 minute reps and the required number of sets by allowing you to vary the resistance by moving the chair closer or further away as needed. It also simulates the full body connections and core tension used from fingers to toes when climbing on steep terrain.

Adding the extra core workout and cardio to this endurance workout helps to simulate more closely the conditions we find ourselves under when climbing close to our maximum - core starting to get tired, breathing hard and fast, heart racing - which means your body is having to perform the endurance hangs in the workout under conditions more closely resembling that of real climbing conditions.

Now go get into it!
Happy training!
Duncan.