Tuesday, May 22, 2012

Hangboard Routines - Route Simulator - RED DRAGON

Hi again one and all!

We're back again today to bring another hangboard routine for all the climbers out there with us. Again just like with the Total Circuits we are going to be trying to bring a hangboard or other climbing specific workout to you each and every week, so look out for that!

This week we have another Route Simulator hangboard work out, this time simulating the stresses of a steeper and burlier route than the last one; this one is for the classic 8a+ 'Red Dragon' at Moon Hill here in Yangshuo.

To do the workout simply set your stop watch timer to 1 minute intervals and perform each exercise for the full minute. If they are too hard just rest for a minute in between each exercise to start with and reduce the rest times over time to build up to doing it straight through.
You can also of course use any type of hangboard for these routines, simply pick holds that are similar or suitable for you, easy.
Some of the exercises you perform non stop for the whole minute, others are broken up into a short exercise (such as some pull ups) followed by a second exercise to do for the remainder of the minute.

Ok, let's go!!!


1. Chair Hang on Big Edge
2. 5 Pull Ups on Big Pinch  /  Chair Hang on Jug
3. 10 second Hang on Small Edge  /  Chair Hang on Big Edge
4. 3 Pull Ups on Medium Edge  /  V Sits
5. 10 second Hang on Small Edge  /  Chair Hang on Sloper
6. 5 Pull Ups on Big Pinch  /  Chair Hang on Big Edge
7. Chair Hang on Jug
8. 10 second Hang on Small Edge  / Chair Hang on Sloper
9. 3 Pull Ups on Small Edge  /  Leg Raises
10. 3 Pull Ups on Sloper  /  Chair Hang on Sloper
11. Offset Pull Ups on Jug and Small Edge
12. 10 Pull Ups on Jug  /  V Sits
13. Chair Hang on Sloper
14. 10 second Hang on Big Edge  /  Star Jumps
15. 10 second Hang on Sloper  /  V Sits
16. 2 One Arm Hang on Small Edge (One on each arm for 6 seconds)  /  Chair Hang on Medium Edge
17. 6 Offset Pull Ups on Jug and Small Edge (3 on each side)  /  Chair Hang on Medium Edge
18. 5 Pull Ups on Small Edge  /  Chair Hang on Medium Edge
19. 20 second Full Lock Off on Medium Edge  /  Chair Hang on Sloper
20. Pull Ups on Big Pinch

Ok, so here are descriptions of the different exercises...

  • Chair Hang - both hands on the designated holds, feet up on a chair as in the endurance hangboard workouts here on this site
  • Pull Ups - standard pull ups performed as smooth and neatly as possible
  • Offset Pull Ups - one hand on one hold, one hand lower and on a different hold (for example; jug and edge) and pull up directing your chin towards the higher hand
  • Full Lock Off - lock off with your chin at least at the height of your hands, hold this statically for the required time
  • Hang - easy, just hang on the designated holds and be sure to engage your shoulders and back so that you are hanging on the muscles and not on the joints 
  • One Arm Hang - Hang from the designated hold with only one hand. Ensure that you engage the muscles in your arm and shoulder so you are not hanging on your bones. If this is too hard use a peice of rope in the other hand, or another hold, etc for assistance
  • Star Jumps / Jumping Jacks - if you don't know what these are look them up in one of the Total Circuits here on this site. A simple cardio exercise to bring your heart rate up and give your arms a short break from the board
  • V Sits and Leg Raises - Core exercises. Take a look at Total Circuit 010 for descriptions of these simple and effective core exercises.

So there you have it. again this is a pretty intense hang board work out so feel free to put rest times in between or reduce the length of each set, etc and build up to the full 20 minutes straight through.
And as always feel free to message us with any questions at all!

Go get training guys and gals!!!


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