Sunday, May 13, 2012

Hangboard Routines - Route Simulator - LIGHTNING

Hi all!

Today I have a hangboard routine for all you climbers out there. It is a fairly hard 20 minute routine that I call a Route Simulator because they are intended to simulate some of the stresses encountered on some routes that I have been trying here in Yangshuo.
I will lay one out for you today and then clarify a few of the exercises in them. I will try to bring you another one of these Route Simulators each week or so.
To do them simply set your stop watch timer to 1 minute intervals and perform each exercise for the full minute. If they are too hard just rest for a minute in between each exercise to start with and reduce the rest times over time to build up to doing it straight through.
You can also of course use any type of hangboard for these routines, simply pick holds that are similar or suitable for you, easy.
Some of the exercises you perform non stop for the whole minute, others are broken up into a short exercise (such as some pull ups) followed by a second exercise to do for the remainder of the minute.

Ok, here we go!


1. Chair Hang on sloper
2. Chair Hang on big edge
3. 5 Pull Ups on big pocket / V - Sits for the remainder of the minute
4. Offset Pull Ups (Jug and medium edge - 3 each side, then swap, repeat)
5. 20 second Full Lock Off on small edge / Chair Hang on sloper
6. 10 second Hang on small edge / Leg Raises
7. Alternating Campus
8. 20 second Hang on medium edge / Chair Hang on medium edge
9. 20 second Hang on medium edge / Chair Hang on sloper
10. 10 second Hang on small edge / Star Jumps (Jumping Jacks)
11. Alternating Campus
12. Chair Hang on medium edge
13. 10 second Offset Lock Off (Big edge and small edge) - once on each side / Leg Raises
14. 6 Offset Pull Ups (Big edge and small edge) - 3 on each side / Chair Hang on medium edge
15. Typewriters on jug
16. 5 Pull Ups on medium edge / Chair Hang on medium edge
17. Alternating Campus
18. 5 Pull Ups on small edge / Chair Hang on medium edge
19. Alternating Campus
20. 10 Pull Ups on sloper

Ok, so here are descriptions of the different exercises...

  • Chair Hang - both hands on the designated holds, feet up on a chair as in the endurance hangboard workouts here on this site
  • Pull Ups - standard pull ups performed as smooth and neatly as possible
  • Offset Pull Ups - one hand on one hold, one hand lower and on a different hold (for example; jug and edge) and pull up directing your chin towards the higher hand
  • Full Lock Off - lock off with your chin at least at the height of your hands, hold this statically for the required time
  • Hang - easy, just hang on the designated holds and be sure to engage your shoulders and back so that you are hanging on the muscles and not on the joints
  • Alternating Campus - I have an extra rung below my hang board and go from this, left hand to an edge, right hand to the top of the board, then repeat starting with right hand to the edge. You can make a small campus move problem on your board that suits you
  • Star Jumps / Jumping Jacks - if you don't know what these are look them up in one of the Total Circuits here on this site. A simple cardio exercise to bring your heart rate up and give your arms a short break from the board
  •  Offset Lock Offs - same as the Offset Pull Ups but bring your chin to your high hand and lock the position there for the designated amount of time
  • Typewriters - hold the designated holds and pull up to full lock position and then move side to side taking your head from your left hand to your right hand and back as smooth as possible, keep going for the indicated amount of time

So there you go. It's a pretty intense hangboard workout and it will most likely feel impossible to complete perfectly to begin with, but you can add rests between the exercises or make slightly easier variations on the exercises but I am sure that once you can actually complete it through with no rests and no failures you will be feeling pretty darn strong  :-)

Look out soon for the next one of these Route Simulator hangboard programs soon and please feel free to message us if you have any questions!

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